22th February

I lay there in the bed, it was quite early in the morning and I had it so cozy in the dark. What happens? Dad comes in to the room, let the light come through the window straight to my eyes and everyone attacks me!

After having breakfast went everybody to the beach with their swimmers on and their surfboard in their hands. Here in New Castle the hills are really, REALLY big! I thought the car would go backwards when we drove up for the first time. So the way to the beach was not that hard, the way back wasn’t that similar to easy… Immediately when we arrived at the beach I took my sarong off and ran to the water with a surfboard. The water was perfect, 24 grades! And the waves were so big.  I took my surfboard and waited for a perfect wave to ride on. Now! It’s here; and I just let myself go with the wave.

You don’t know that feeling before you try it, it’s amazing. And if you catch a really good wave you go a really long bit really fast. It’s like you flying on the wave, and it goes so fast. And you just want to do it over and over again. You don’t get tired on it.

After just lying on a board on a wave I thought I could try a bigger wave and stand up! So I tried that, Melissa helped me in the begging and after that I tried a little on my own. And guess what! I stood up twice!

Now I really know why people do surfing. It’s the coolest, funniest sport I’ve ever tried.

After surfing for a while we had lunch at a restaurant. We had family fish and chips and it was the best fish and chips I’ve ever eating on a restaurant. I’m serious.

When everybody were full and happy we went back to the house and rested. I did some painting myself. And after a while I followed Charlotta, Melissa and dad and did some shopping. And when we were back we actually went to the beach again and I surfed even more. The waves where not that big anymore but it was fun!

After bathing for a while we walked to a really beautiful place. It were rocks everywhere and the sun were just about to go down. I just laid on the big rock for a while and looked at the waves hitting the stonewall. And if I wanted I could just fall asleep there.

I don’t like the cold, the snow, red fingers and nose. I like the sun, the beach, the heat, the freckles that comes on my face and the curls that becomes in my hair of the salt water, nice tanned skin and night that you can hear the locusts makes cozy sound by rubbing their legs against each other, nights at the beach with friends and you just have to wear a top and a pair of shorts.